Sometimes a new pattern comes out and it's immediately both exactly what I want to make and perfect for my handmade wardrobe! This was the case with one of the most recent patterns released by French patternmaker Coralie Bijasson: the Ehola Top.
I chose to make this out of the Minerva Core Range 100% cotton jersey stretch knit fabric in the Navy Blue colorway. This pattern calls for fabric with at least 40% horizontal stretch, and with 60% stretch widthwise, this fabric qualifies. I was a little hesitant about making this top with this fabric, however, because it is 100% cotton and therefore doesn't have as much stretch recovery as other stretch fabrics in other fiber combinations and it's opaque, but lightweight. However, it worked out really well!
I made the v-neck version of the top in the size small, which corresponded best to my bust measurements, and then I modified the pattern in two ways. First, this pattern comes with two sleeve lengths: short sleeves and full-length sleeves. I prefer 3/4 length sleeves, so I shortened the full-length sleeves by copying the length of the 3/4 sleeves of one of my favorite stretch tops (the Sew Over It Edie Top).
For the second modification, I noticed while sewing this for the first time (this is my second Ehola top) that there was a lot of excess fabric in the waist and the contrast between a fitted neckline and sleeves to a baggy waist was unflattering on me, so I took out about 3 cm of excess fabric at the waist on either side (for a total of 6 cm), curving the seam from the armscye, and then curving it back out to the hips.
I sewed this project with a stretch needle size 80, a walking foot, and a lightning stitch (a narrow and mid-length zig-zag stitch). This fabric was very easy to sew, I just needed to be careful and sew slowly at the beginning of each seam to avoid the fabric getting pulled down and stuck in the needle plate of my machine. It was also easy to cut out and press, and took steam from the iron well. Overall, this fabric was easy to work with and I highly recommend it to beginner sewists looking to work with stretch fabrics for the first time.
Despite my early reservations about this fabric combined with this pattern, it turned out really well! The wide, balletic neckline doesn't fall off my shoulders and lays nicely without bunching or sagging. This top is not too tight or not too loose, and the 100% cotton content makes it comfortable to wear as well as breathable. Best of all, this project is easy to cut out and sew up in only a few hours, and is the perfect simple project for maximum satisfaction.
To conclude, I highly recommend both this pattern and this fabric, and I'm very happy with the final result!
Thank you for reading,
Sarah
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YouTube: Sarah Naomi
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