I found it helpful to lay the pocket facing on top of the pants front pattern piece to grade across the 12/14 size from the waist to the hips. In the photo below, I added a triangle wedge of tracing paper to the pocket facing on the right side of the facing to match the left Front pant curve.

For the right side of the Front pants I graded from a 12 to 14 through the fly. See the photo below for reference.

In retrospect, I would leave the crotch curve at a 12 through the fly and grade to the 14 after the fly. I sewed a large seam allowance in this area to reduce bulk.

My mods:

Sewing zipper fly:

https://www.closetcorepatterns.com/ginger-sewalong-pt-8-sewing-a-fly-front-zipper/

I decided to omit the button fly that comes with the Morgan Jeans pattern and sew a zipper fly. This sub was very easy to do. I followed the tutorial above. The Front pant pattern piece has the fly included in the pattern. I used the button fly shield pattern piece but omitted the button fly placket.

I wanted to note that zippers are different widths (which makes a difference in the spacing when you sew the seams inside the fly). I have a picture below to show two zippers at different widths, for reference. The zipper that I used for the final pants was 1” wide.

Alternative waistband: https://www.closetcorepatterns.com/how-to-sew-a-jeans-waistband-alternative-method/

Although I haven’t sewn jeans before, I thought the alternative waistband above looked fun to try! I loved the idea of a less bulky option for the waistband so I gave this construction method a try for the final pants.

Crotch seam: I have a habit when sewing pants to do a couple of steps that weren’t included in the instructions. I like to snip out a triangle of fabric at the center crotch to reduce bulk.

I also like to stitch the in-seam starting at the center, sew down one leg then back to the center and sew down the other leg. Sewing with this order helps reduce the fabric shifting.

Continued in my next post...

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