Ever since I made my first pair of pajama pants in cozy cotton flannel, I've been craving the feeling of this fabric more and more! Initially, I planned to make a button-down shirt with this white cotton flannel, but when it arrived, I realized it was much more casual than I had anticipated. It rumples and clings to itself easily, has almost no drape or weight, and attracts dust and hair nearly as efficiently as a microfiber cleaning cloth! So instead, I decided to make a button-down sleep shirt.

I chose the Seamwork Leif Sleep Shirt, the bonus version of the unisex Leif pajama set (available exclusively for Seamwork members). This bonus pattern is also unisex and features a relaxed, comfortable fit with a straight silhouette that I find timelessly elegant. It also includes a softly curved notched collar and full-length sleeves finished with cuffs.

I made a size 00, which corresponds to my bust and waist measurements. My hip measurement aligns with a size 2 in the pattern instructions, but the size 00 already had 5 inches (about 13 cm) of ease at the hips, which was more than enough, so I chose not to grade up.

This fabric was relatively easy to work with—it doesn't fray when cut, the weave isn’t too tight so it eases into curves nicely, and it shapes well under a steamy iron. However, it was tricky to find the grainline, and in addition to clinging to itself and stray fibers, it also stuck to the bottom of my iron. To avoid this, I used a pressing cloth and prevented direct contact with the iron.

Despite being a button-down shirt with a collar and sleeve cuffs, this sleep shirt came together quickly and easily! Seamwork’s instructions are always well-illustrated and precise while remaining easy to follow. Since this fabric doesn’t fray, I finished the seam allowances by simply pinking them with pinking shears. So far, they haven’t unraveled at all, so this method was not only quick but also saved me a lot of time.

When I first finished this project, I had a sinking feeling that in white, it looked a bit too much like a lab coat—very sterile. To soften the look, I made a few adjustments. First, I removed one of the patch pockets to create an asymmetrical design. Then, I chose buttons with a slightly marbled or variegated surface rather than a flat matte color. Finally, I added a bit of embroidery to the remaining pocket! I recently attended a traditional Japanese embroidery class to learn the kogin-zashi technique, so I attempted to stitch an "ume" (plum blossom) kogin-zashi flower onto the pocket. It took me about three tries because the fabric’s weave made it difficult to keep the motif straight and symmetrical. In the end, it looks a bit more like a seashell or a pink spider—but I still love the pop of color it adds, and it was fun to sew.

I'm really happy with how this sleep shirt fits. It’s comfortable—not too tight or too loose—and I love the straight, elegant silhouette. The sleeves are easy to roll up, and the length is just right—not too short, not too long. All in all, I think this sleep shirt is going to be incredibly cozy, and I'm really pleased with the finished result!

Thank you for reading,

Sarah

Instagram: sarah__naomi_

YouTube: Sarah Naomi

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