Pattern Description: Meet Morgan, slim-cut jeans designed for non-stretch denim. Inspired by old school denim style but with a fresh, modern cut, Morgan Jeans are engineered to flatter.

Featuring a mid-rise, traditional five pocket construction, contoured waistband, tapered leg and button fly, Morgan fits snugly through the hip but relaxes and conforms to your curves with a little wear (size up for a slouchier, more casual fit). Choose between a regular or cropped inseam, and add an optional leather waistband patch.

Muslin/toile:

First muslin

My dimensions: Waist - 30”, Hips - 40” Height - 4’ 5”

Fabric: Polyester, unknown weight, lurex woven into the denim

I knew for sure that I wanted to make a few muslins to test fit. Looking at the size chart I picked a 10/12 to start. I selected a 10 at the waist and graded to a 12 at the hips down.

I wanted to share some tips for how I cut corners to sew the muslin quickly. To save time, I omitted the following pieces: coin pocket, pocket facing, pocket lining, back pocket, button fly placket, belt loops, waistband patch.

I taped the pocket facing to the pants Front pattern piece to integrate the pockets into the pants. Admittedly I would never want a pair of pants without pockets but for the sake of quickly sewing the muslin, it saved time. Letting go of the muslin being wearable gave me a lot of freedom to practice and explore with fit, stitches, and size. Technically, a muslin really should always be focused on practicing fit but sometimes the practical side of me wrestles with wanting to make it wearable.

I used all multiple contrasting threads in the serger and sewing machine. This helped me check thread tension and saved time by not changing threads throughout the muslin sewing. As I used one fabric for the muslins and a different fabric for the final, I was able to quickly check tension on the final fabric with the contrasting threads.

I skipped the waistband in the muslins to save time. I found this muslin to be too tight so I wanted to go up a size.

Second Muslin

Rise mods:

https://www.closetcorepatterns.com/updates-ginger-jeans/

I modified the front and back with the ¼” and ½” rise mods as mentioned in the link above.

Continued in my next post...

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