Hello! I’m quite excited to share with you about customizing the fit of the Zadie jumpsuit. I’ve enjoy making this pattern as a previous project with Minerva
https://www.minerva.com/posts/1019171
(in a velvet version). This project was made with a stretch knit. I’ve been wanting to make the Zadie again in a short sleeved version in a woven, linen fabric base.

The fabric that I used for this project is from Minerva, it’s a linen\viscose fabric base in the Minerva Exclusive Shingle Path Linen Viscose print. The fabric is 55% linen and 45% Viscose. I’ve worked with linen a lot (these are some of the past Minerva projects that I’ve made
https://www.minerva.com/posts/1064218
https://www.minerva.com/posts/1133095
https://www.minerva.com/posts/1019155
https://www.minerva.com/posts/1021680
https://www.minerva.com/posts/1022192


in linen fabrics). I was curious at first how working with a linen blend would be. I really love it! The Viscose gives the fabric some drape and seems to slightly reduce the wrinkling (although it will still wrinkles a bit). It has the lovely texture and breathability of a linen. I wore this in the summer at the beach and was quite comfortable.

If you’re not familiar with the Zadie jumpsuit, it has been HUGELY popular (with sewists making the pattern as is and also making pattern hacks). You can see lots of project inspiration via #zadiejumpsuit and #zadiejumpsuithack on Instagram, the Minerva site, or by searching online. People have loved the fit and ease of wearing this creatively constructed jumpsuit pattern. There are no fasteners within the pattern (no zippers or buttons), it includes pockets, and is really comfortable to wear. It includes pockets as well.

Although I agree that the pattern is very comfortable, I wanted to adjust the fit a bit for my wear. In my previous version, I selected a knit fabric with stretch (which wears differently than a woven, in size). I shared in my last post the sizing changes that I made for a knit fabric. Although that version of the Zadie is very cozy to wear, the crotch is too low for me.

I’ll share the muslin journey that I took with this pattern and then share the final mods that I made.

Muslin
For reference, my dimensions are: 34” Bust , 30” Stomach, 40” Hips. There are lots and lots of tips out there for sizing from those that have made the Zadie. I thought it might be helpful to share my sizing, what I tried for the muslin, and how I made changes for the final.

Size: 6 on the top and an 8 on the bottom (graded just below the waist to the stomach down). Short sleeve.
Cut the Front Back on the fold (removed the center back seam).
Added ⅜” to the center crossover detail for added modesty.
On the Front and Back legs, shortened rise by 2”.
Added 8” to the length of the pants

I used a chambray woven fabric for the muslin.

Notes on the muslin:
The front crotch is still too low
The back is a little too tight
The overlapped area at the front crotch gaps open


Final
Minerva Exclusive Shingle Path Linen\Viscose blend, Fabric width 58”
Length 4m (extra fabric was leftover)

Size: 8 on the top and a 10 on the bottom (graded at the waist down at the pants). Short sleeve

Mods
Front body (2 pieces, left and right):
Added 0.5” along the center chest crossover detail (for a little more coverage at the chest).
Removed 1” at the lengthen/shorten line.

Back body:
Removed the center back seam, cut out the pattern piece on the fold.
Removed 1” at the lengthen/shorten line. Graded under the arms with the lengthen\shorten line.

Front leg:
Added 8” to the length.
Removed 3” at the lengthen/shorten line.
Left the crotch curve as is, including the lengthen/shorten line.

Back leg:
Added 8” to the length.
Removed 2” at the lengthen/shorten line.
Graded the crotch curve as is, including the lengthen/shorten line.
Removed 1” from the bottom (to even out the front and back crotch rise differences).