The instructions on the stabilizer recommend to test the application on a swatch first. I cut out a small square of the rayon fabric, finished the edges and then sprayed the stabilizer on the swatch. I then washed the swatch and did in fact see that the stabilizer washed out beautifully.

You can reference in the photos below what a difference the stabilizer makes to the stiffness of the fabric (noting the difference in the fabric drape between the two photos and the way it hangs).
Rayon fabric without stabilizer:

Rayon fabric after stabilizer was applied:

To apply the stabilizer, I cut two trash bags to lay flat and laid them on a table. I opened up the windows to help the ventilation through the process. Ideally this process could be done outside on a clothesline. I didn’t have an option to spray the fabric outside in a way that would keep the fabric clean so I went this route. The trash bags helped prevent the spray from getting on the cutting mat in my craft table.

Quilted patch pocket:
Typically when I have sewn patch pockets with woven fabrics I have preferred to make the pocket lined (and I have usually interfaced one of the fabrics). I like going this route for better durability with heavy use of the pocket. For this project I decided to sew a lined, linen pocket but I thought I would try a faux quilted look to add more texture and visual interest to the pocket. I did not use an interfacing inside this pocket but instead just used two layers of the grey linen fabric. I used the patch pocket pattern piece, as is. I used a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance around the edges of the pocket and then trimmed the corners. I then turned it right side out, ironed the pocket and marked 6 lines along the pocket, 1” (2.5cm) apart. The 6th line at the top of the pocket is a topstitch line to close the opening hole in the pocket.

The underlayer pattern piece did not have the patch pocket reference included on it. The design intent for the pattern is to add patch pockets to the top layer pattern piece. All of the pattern pieces are interchangable, which is really fun to mix and match the pattern ideas. I cut out the patch pocket marking in the top layer pattern piece, laid this pattern on the underlayer, linen fabric and then marked the top corners of the patch pockets.

I then sewed the patch pockets in place, sewing little reinforcing triangles at the corners of the pocket.

To be continued…..

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