For the muslin, I left the sleeves and bottom edges unhemmed. I found the sleeves a little short for my preference so I thought adding a little length will make the final perfect for me, hemmed.

I also wanted to note that I omitted the keyhole back for the muslin. I skipped this seam as well by cutting the fabric out on the fold (instead of cutting out two pattern pieces as the pattern recommends). I didn’t take out the seam allowance (as you could do) so there is a little more ease in back with the muslin.

Final Top:

Materials:

 2m Cotton and Steel Rayon Fabric
 Pattern Weights
 Rotary Cutter
 Blue Poly Thread
 Hand sewing needle
 1 1.2 cm Button
 80/12 universal sewing machine needle
 Underarm gusset pattern

My final seam allowances (per my fit preferences):

 Bust dart: 1/2”
 Back Seam: 1/2”
 Shoulders: 1/2”
 Side Seams: 1/2”
 Neck facing: 5/8”
 Arm hole: 1/4”
 Gusset: 1/4”

I spent some time laying the out the fabric before cutting the pattern pieces (checking the grainline).

I added an extra 1” (25.4cm) of length at the bottom notch location of the sleeves (inserting this extra length above the hem).

I cut the facing pieces out slightly off the grain to try and eek these out from the smaller fabric scraps.

I serged each edge of the fabric after cutting the pattern pieces out to prevent the fabric edges from fraying over time. I did not serge around the top neckline edges as they became enclosed with the facings. If you don’t have a serger, you could absolutely use an edge finishing stitch on a standard sewing machine to finish the edges (or use french seams for this project).

For the back keyhole I decided to use a button (rather than a hook & eye closure that was recommended in the pattern). I had a couple of buttons from Arrow Mountain that I was debating between, but finally decided to go with the asterisk style, wooden button.

Continued in my next post…

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