I usually go for prints but this time I went with an ecru bull denim, it was calling my name. It was saying hey, Lori, let’s use this as a canvas for something very unique. A jacket was my plan and I knew with my embroidery software and machine, I could really have some fun with this great fabric.
The Merchant & Mills 13.5-ounce bull cotton denim fabric in ecru is very heavy and substantial, so I washed and dried it twice. My plan was for a basic jacket but not a jean jacket style. I went with Paper Cut Patterns’ Stacker Jacket, a utility jacket with a cropped boxy fit. As the pattern description states it is very versatile and that is so true. My only fitting change was to lengthen the sleeves, I like my sleeves below my wrists.
I looked around for inspiration and found some ideas, a bit of embellishment but I didn’t want to go over the top with the embellishment. Let’s talk about my changes… First, I eliminated the front yokes on the pattern, I wanted a cleaner look. One of the ideas I found involved simple topstitching, I used a wide presser foot with a markings, then I could follow a line for nice straight stitching. I continued this stitching onto one pocket and the top 60% of the sleeves. This fabric was amazing for the topsitching and the rust thread really pops against the ecru denim. Next up some simple embroidery, just a geometric design, three colors. I used this on the sleeves and one pocket. A couple of tips, cut the pattern pieces a bit larger, just in case the stitching or the embroidery draws the fabric up a bit. Also, you can mark you pattern piece and make sure you line the two sleeves at the same spot, cut it out and then the stitching and embroidery match.
After all this embellishment, it was time to construct the jacket. I switched to a denim needle for the bull denim fabric. I loved sewing this denim, it has a weight that is perfect for this cropped jacket and the denim was great for the embroidery. I did go with ecru thread for all the topstitching, I didn’t want to take away from the decorative stitching or the embroidery. Also, the natural denim just needed to be the canvas and the ecru color is perfect a place for your eye to rest with all the decorative design.

My bull denim was easy to press and hold the press. I did use quite a bit of steam to help shape the collar. I used a lining from stash and the colors tied into the embroidery colors I used. I love the details on this Papercut Pattern, especially the mitered corners on the front for the hem, it is a beautiful finish. The last step, buttonholes and these are long ones, the buttons are 1-1/8 inches, I practiced several times to make sure I had the size right.

I am so happy with my jacket; the bull denim fabric is perfect for this utility type jacket and the finished garment is what I had in mind. I will love wearing this all year long.

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