Lady McElroy double breasted tailored coat


A few posts back I made a black double-breasted overcoat using a vintage Family Circle pattern. Well, I had unfinished business with that pattern and so I’ve returned to it again, this time with this glorious Lady McElroy coating.

I seriously dig making coats. I’m not entirely sure why, it might even be the very fact they are such a labour-intensive endeavour. But also, crucially, they cover up whatever you are wearing, and they can spruce up your look with minimal effort on the dressing front.

I really love my gentlemanly black coat, but because I only lined it with acetate, it isn’t as warm as it could be. The plan? Make another and see if an interlining could be the answer.

I didn’t want to make two identical coats (even if they are in different colours), and I knew I’d find an above-the-knee overcoat super useful, so I shortened the pattern by about eight inches. I also added welt pockets - the pattern has patch pockets, but these sat far too rigidly at the hips for my liking, so I removed them from the black coat.

This time, crucially, I interlined the body of the coat with remnants of the Lady McElroy pure wool suiting used to make the blazer in my previous post. If you ever watch Trinny on YouTube, picture one of her signature longline gilets and you have the idea… I then lined the coat body with satin and the sleeves with acetate.

The result? Oh my word: WARMTH. The outer itself is 90% wool so it is already a cosy proposition, but this took it to the next level. And, because the suiting is so lightweight and drapey, it adds a nice amount of weight to the garment without excessive bulk. I also used wool and hair canvas in the facings, which adds even more warmth - and also a lovely drape to the lapel. I used petersham for the collar, which is the most wonderful way of creating shape (for those of you who, like, me, love the turned-up Jane Fonda look).

Working with this fabric is easy too. It takes an iron well (I always mention this, I know, but it is fairly crucial!), and it handles easily under the machine. It’s actually reversible, so you could go for the darker grey side, or even a two-tone look - I thought this might have looked quite good for the under collar. The herringbone design looks so chic and classic. All I have to do now is make sure my small companions don't jump in any big puddles while I’m wearing it…

Sewing is only ever the first challenge in creating a memade wardrobe, eh?!

Thanks for reading

Ruth

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Please note: this coating fabric was given to me in return for review. All other materials I purchased myself.