"Why has Mummy turned into a present?" Exclaimed my 2 year-old daughter as I emerged with my newly sewn Ruska Knot Dress.

I'm not sure which way to take this really. Perhaps I should be pleased that the knot, which is the great design feature of this dress, was exactly that, a great feature, and one that's instantly noticeable. Or could this be that Freya had too many presents to open at Christmas, so much so that everything looks like a present now?

That aside, I love how this dress turned out. I've had my eye on this pattern, which is one included in the Breaking the Pattern book by Named Clothing, for quite some time. Have you seen all the amazing versions on blogs and Instagram? This seems to be the most popular pattern from the book.

You could probably imagine my excitement when I saw that this was a free download at Love Sewing Magazine (https://www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/product/named-jersey-knot-dress/)! Did you know that there are loads of free patterns for download here, including a few by well-known designers? Definitely worth checking out, if you like freebies!

There is a catch, though. Unless you own the right issue of the Love Sewing magazine, you'll have to figure out how to put it together. Since this is a relatively easy pattern, I decided that it was worth a shot, so downloaded this for my safe keeping a while ago.

And before long, the right fabric came along. You may know by now that I'm rather partial to a good Art Gallery fabric, and having worked with their cotton jersey in the past (see my Moneta http://www.queenofdarts.com/2016/02/my-very-own-moneta.html and my breastfeeding top http://www.queenofdarts.com/2018/11/sewaholic-renfrew-top-nursing-hack.html), I jumped at the chance of sewing with this amazing AGF Garden Dreams jersey. It is absolutely gorgeous. The colour, the softness, and the stretch and recovery are perfect, and I knew that it would be just right for the Ruska Knot dress.

Whilst this stunning fabric was being prewashed and dried, I set to printing and taping together the pattern pieces. I won't lie - this took forever! I've got used to sending my A0 patterns off to be printed for me, and how I have not missed taping almost 50 pages of A4 together... But it was all worth it. One thing that I noticed was that this pattern actually contains all the variations of the Ruska from the book, so you also get the longer Ruska (none knot) knit dress, the different sleeve lengths, and even the little turtle neck option. What a bonus!

Once I recovered from my printing and taping exhaustion, it was all plane sailing. I can't speak for how you should construct this dress, but the below is how I did it:
I cut a size 1 (UK 6), graded to a size 2 at the waist;
I shortened both the bodice and the skirt by an inch or so, given that the pattern was drafted for someone who's 5' 7 (and I'm 4 inches shorter);
I also widened and lowered the neckline, as a high neck is not flattering on me.
I altered the pattern pieces such that the front tie overlay layers had a separate piece for the tie part. This is so that I could cut the ties double sided, so that the wrong (unprinted, white) side of the fabric would not be showing once the knot is made. This took a bit of brain work and messing about with seam allowances.
I sewed the tie pieces right sides together, turned out, and attached to the bodice overlay pieces. I then sewed the centre front seam of the overlay.
I basted the overlay to the front bodice at shoulders and side seams. Both pieces were laying right side up.
I sewed the front and back bodice together at the shoulders, including clear elastic for stablisation.
I attached the sleeves in flat on both sides, before sewing up the side seams.
I then added the neckband, before coverstitching the neckline and the hems (skirt and sleeves).
I used a 1cm seam allowance throughout the process.

Even though I may look like a present, I love how comfortable and effortless this dress is! I can't wait to try the other "bonus" versions, now that the pattern is cut and ready 😉

Until next time,

Alice from Queen of Darts (www.queenofdarts.com)

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