8 years ago
Confession: I love wearing stripes but don't often sew with stripes these days. The reason? Pattern matching takes extra efforts and time is precious! But when I saw this beautiful Art Gallery Cotton Poplin Fabric from Minerva, it was love at first sight and I was determined to sew up some stripy perfection that you can only achieve with custom made garments.
This gorgeous design is part of the AGF Mediterraneo Collection by the talented Katarina Roccella, inspired by the Mediterranean coast (these are all available at Minerva by the metre). While I love pretty much every single design in the collection, I was instantly drawn to this Gecko Trails print. Hidden in the brushstroke blue stripes are these little silver and ochre coloured geckos, adding a whimsical touch to a traditional nautical stripe pattern. The collection comes in both cotton poplin and jersey knit, and I chose the poplin.
You may wonder what cotton poplin is, and how it is different from other cotton woven fabrics. Poplin is characterised by its tight weave and slightly ribbed texture, which gives the fabric the smooth lustre that we usually associate with men's formal shirting material. It is fairly light weight, I would say between a chambray and a quilting cotton. The Art Gallery cotton poplin is top quality with a lovely balance of drape and structure, perfect for a wardrobe classic - shirt dress.
You know sometimes a project just feels like one's signature style and demands that much more thoughts and attention to details? Well this is such a project for me. I really took my time to make sure I'm 100% happy with each decision in design and construction choices, and thorough enjoyed the make. Here are some of the tips I'd gathered throughout the process to share with you:
Tip #1 - Choose a suitable pattern. Generally speaking, a pattern with less pieces, seams, and darts simplifies your stripe matching game. There are a lot of lovely shirt dress patterns out there but I went with my TNT Grainline Studio Alder for it's simple lines and relaxed fit. There are no tricky seams, sleeves or waistbands to consider and there are only two subtle darts. The Alder is one of the most popular indie dress patterns and lives up to its name. The drafting is second to none and the professional finishes are a joy to sew each time. I learned so much from sewing my Alders that I'm now using the "Grainline methods" for almost all my shirt making.
Tip #2 - Play with stripe directions and placements. Vertical, horizontal, or diagonal? Why not all of them? When stripes are oriented and placed strategically, they can create some pleasing visual interests that make your garment one of its kind. The Gecko Trails stripes are horizontal (perpendicular to the selvedge), giving it a nautical Breton top look. I kept the stripes horizontal for the bodice but switched to vertical stripes on the skirt for a slimming effect. For a fun touch, I also added diagonal chevron patterns to the back yoke and under collar. I love the result which is visually interesting without being too "busy"
Tip #3 - Allow extra fabric for pattern matching. I usually can make my Alders (size 2) with less than 2 meters of cotton shirting fabric, but ended up using about 2.5 meters for this stripy version. This does not even include the inner yoke and sleeve binding, which I used a white cotton shirting for. This is because these elements are on the inside of the garment and I don't want the blue stripes to show through the not completely opaque white of the main fabric. Oh and did I mention I added pockets?! I went for my TNT inseam pocket pattern piece from the Chalk and Notch Fringe dress, which has the perfect curve and shape for my hands!
Tip #4 - Think of ways to help the stripes line up. Is there any elements / construction steps you could change to make life easier for you and your stripes? While I love the professional placket construction of the original Alder, I cheated and made the button plackets on both sides the same as the under placket, which is cut in one piece with the bodice and simply folded under. This way I didn't have to worry about matching all the freestyle brushstroke stripes on the placket in the front center of my dress. I also used sewn-on snaps instead of buttons, so I can more accurately position the closure to make sure the stripes are in sync all the down the front.
Whew... that was a lot of things to consider and indeed it was a labour of love. I am so happy with my new Alder in AGF loveliness and got many compliments wearing it. The cotton poplin is smooth and cool for summer, and will also pair well with a cozy cardigan for the colder monthes. It washes well, is easy to iron and stays crisp through wearing, without much wrinkling. The many shades of blue remind me of summer memories at beach and a glimpse of the hidden geckos always brings a smile to my face.
I have my eyes on so many other gorgeous Art Gallery Fabrics Minerva now offers. How about your own shirt dress in this stunner floral cotton poplin? Or a Sew Over It Penny in this feminine floral cotton lawn? Why not a Named Inari Tee in a mod graphic jersey? The possibilities are endless... Thank you Minerva for a wonderful selection!
Until next time,
Chloe
#minervamakes #minervamakers #isew #memade #memades #sewing #sewist #sewists #sewinginspo #sewinginspiration #sew #sewcialist #sewingproject #sewingprojects #sewingideas #sewingprojectideas #sewingpatterninspo #lovesewing #ilovesewing #sewsewsew #sewersgonnasew #makersgonnamake #sewaholic #sewaholics #shareyoursewing #sewinglove #handmadewardrobe #handemadeclothes #isewmyclothes #diyclothes #dressmaking #fabricinspo #seamstress #memadeeveryday #imakemyclothes #imakemyownclothes #fashion #fashioninspo #memadewardrobe #memadefashion #diyfashion #diywardrobe #fashionsewing #indiepatterns #indiesewingpatterns #grainlinestudio #grainlinestudiopatterns #grainlinestudioalder #grainlinestudioaldershirtdress #sewingalder #aldershirtdress #sewingdresses #sewingshirtdresses #sewingwithpoplin #poplinsewingprojects #artgalleryfabrics #artgallerypoplin #dressmakingwithartgallery
This gorgeous design is part of the AGF Mediterraneo Collection by the talented Katarina Roccella, inspired by the Mediterranean coast (these are all available at Minerva by the metre). While I love pretty much every single design in the collection, I was instantly drawn to this Gecko Trails print. Hidden in the brushstroke blue stripes are these little silver and ochre coloured geckos, adding a whimsical touch to a traditional nautical stripe pattern. The collection comes in both cotton poplin and jersey knit, and I chose the poplin.
You may wonder what cotton poplin is, and how it is different from other cotton woven fabrics. Poplin is characterised by its tight weave and slightly ribbed texture, which gives the fabric the smooth lustre that we usually associate with men's formal shirting material. It is fairly light weight, I would say between a chambray and a quilting cotton. The Art Gallery cotton poplin is top quality with a lovely balance of drape and structure, perfect for a wardrobe classic - shirt dress.
You know sometimes a project just feels like one's signature style and demands that much more thoughts and attention to details? Well this is such a project for me. I really took my time to make sure I'm 100% happy with each decision in design and construction choices, and thorough enjoyed the make. Here are some of the tips I'd gathered throughout the process to share with you:
Tip #1 - Choose a suitable pattern. Generally speaking, a pattern with less pieces, seams, and darts simplifies your stripe matching game. There are a lot of lovely shirt dress patterns out there but I went with my TNT Grainline Studio Alder for it's simple lines and relaxed fit. There are no tricky seams, sleeves or waistbands to consider and there are only two subtle darts. The Alder is one of the most popular indie dress patterns and lives up to its name. The drafting is second to none and the professional finishes are a joy to sew each time. I learned so much from sewing my Alders that I'm now using the "Grainline methods" for almost all my shirt making.
Tip #2 - Play with stripe directions and placements. Vertical, horizontal, or diagonal? Why not all of them? When stripes are oriented and placed strategically, they can create some pleasing visual interests that make your garment one of its kind. The Gecko Trails stripes are horizontal (perpendicular to the selvedge), giving it a nautical Breton top look. I kept the stripes horizontal for the bodice but switched to vertical stripes on the skirt for a slimming effect. For a fun touch, I also added diagonal chevron patterns to the back yoke and under collar. I love the result which is visually interesting without being too "busy"
Tip #3 - Allow extra fabric for pattern matching. I usually can make my Alders (size 2) with less than 2 meters of cotton shirting fabric, but ended up using about 2.5 meters for this stripy version. This does not even include the inner yoke and sleeve binding, which I used a white cotton shirting for. This is because these elements are on the inside of the garment and I don't want the blue stripes to show through the not completely opaque white of the main fabric. Oh and did I mention I added pockets?! I went for my TNT inseam pocket pattern piece from the Chalk and Notch Fringe dress, which has the perfect curve and shape for my hands!
Tip #4 - Think of ways to help the stripes line up. Is there any elements / construction steps you could change to make life easier for you and your stripes? While I love the professional placket construction of the original Alder, I cheated and made the button plackets on both sides the same as the under placket, which is cut in one piece with the bodice and simply folded under. This way I didn't have to worry about matching all the freestyle brushstroke stripes on the placket in the front center of my dress. I also used sewn-on snaps instead of buttons, so I can more accurately position the closure to make sure the stripes are in sync all the down the front.
Whew... that was a lot of things to consider and indeed it was a labour of love. I am so happy with my new Alder in AGF loveliness and got many compliments wearing it. The cotton poplin is smooth and cool for summer, and will also pair well with a cozy cardigan for the colder monthes. It washes well, is easy to iron and stays crisp through wearing, without much wrinkling. The many shades of blue remind me of summer memories at beach and a glimpse of the hidden geckos always brings a smile to my face.
I have my eyes on so many other gorgeous Art Gallery Fabrics Minerva now offers. How about your own shirt dress in this stunner floral cotton poplin? Or a Sew Over It Penny in this feminine floral cotton lawn? Why not a Named Inari Tee in a mod graphic jersey? The possibilities are endless... Thank you Minerva for a wonderful selection!
Until next time,
Chloe
#minervamakes #minervamakers #isew #memade #memades #sewing #sewist #sewists #sewinginspo #sewinginspiration #sew #sewcialist #sewingproject #sewingprojects #sewingideas #sewingprojectideas #sewingpatterninspo #lovesewing #ilovesewing #sewsewsew #sewersgonnasew #makersgonnamake #sewaholic #sewaholics #shareyoursewing #sewinglove #handmadewardrobe #handemadeclothes #isewmyclothes #diyclothes #dressmaking #fabricinspo #seamstress #memadeeveryday #imakemyclothes #imakemyownclothes #fashion #fashioninspo #memadewardrobe #memadefashion #diyfashion #diywardrobe #fashionsewing #indiepatterns #indiesewingpatterns #grainlinestudio #grainlinestudiopatterns #grainlinestudioalder #grainlinestudioaldershirtdress #sewingalder #aldershirtdress #sewingdresses #sewingshirtdresses #sewingwithpoplin #poplinsewingprojects #artgalleryfabrics #artgallerypoplin #dressmakingwithartgallery