Hello everybody, Camelia here, with a new Minerva fabric post.
I have a few jumpsuits in my wardrobe and I love them, so when I saw Farrah from Sew Over It I was all in to make it. It just happened to see this gorgeous cotton twill stretch from Minerva and I knew that this will be a perfect match. I had it all in my head how it was going to look!
I know that one of the most challenging parts when making jumpsuits is the fit of the pants part and in special the crotch. In a jumpsuit, when the crotch length is too short you have the chance when raising your hands the crotch will rise somewhere tight between your...you know, legs:). But also, when it is too long that will result in ugly wrinkles, we all know that pants are something special when it comes to fitting them, in a jumpsuit is adding a bit extra to the fun.
After deciding on size 12 and measuring the pattern a bit, the first step was to make a toile ( a test garment). I would never start on the real fashion fabric with a pants pattern, I always need to make adjustments so I will not take the risk of wasting time and fabric.
I knew the fabric that will become my final garment so I choose a fabric from my stash in a similar weight, drape and stretch to be sure I will get accurate results.
Before I cut my toile I measured another jumpsuit and got to the conclusion that I needed extra length in the crotch so I added 3cm for the back and one for the front. Later after trying the toile, I realized that it was way too much and took it out.
Based on the fit of my toile I made some other changes too. The upper area felt kind of big at the underarms but around the bust the fit was great. The fabric I used for my toile was a bit stiff so I think in a softer fabric that extra fabric at the underarms wouldn't have bothered me as much.
The solution for this was very easy. I started by taking in 1 cm from the waist getting to 2cm at the underarm and blending to nothing at the sleeve hem. It made a huge difference in how the upper part of the jumpsuit was feeling.
And that was all I changed in the bodice part.
For the pants, I had a bit more work. The crotch felt too long front and back so I decided to take a horizontal tuck on the front and the back and that brought the pants in a better position. The pants felt too wide and I wanted a bit of a tapered silhouette. So I took the side seams in until I was happy with the fit, tapering to nothing at the high hip as the fit was perfect in that area.
After all the pattern pieces were adjusted cutting and sewing this garment was very easy. This cotton stretch was very nice to work with, presses very easy too.
I really like all the details in this jumpsuit and even if they are difficult to see I did add all the pockets, at a closer look they are there:). Also, I like the elastic at the waist and the button closure.
In conclusion, this was a fun project. I enjoyed the fitting process and definitely enjoyed sewing it! This will be my spring uniform and I hope to get the time to make another one.
Thank you for reading my post happy sewing!
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