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Ariana Dress in Graphic Leopard Viscose


Minerva Exclusive Viscose… well that was a no brainer. And this Graphic Leopard print was such an obvious choice for me, and it did not disappoint. From choosing it as a picture to it arriving, and it is so incredible in person. The vibrancy of the colours is just utterly brilliant, and the drape on this is like nothing else. I instantly draped it over a mannequin and then went into sewing it as soon as the pattern arrived… I was so excited!

I don’t sew dresses in viscose very often, I spend a lot of time making them in stretch fabrics these days. As of late though I’ve been favouring a floaty dress over my usual stretchy numbers so decided to go on a floaty dress pattern hunt. After adding a terrifyingly large amount to my wish list (there are so many incredible dress patterns out at the moment) I came across the Ariana dress from Style Arc.

After seeing the sheered dress on The Great British Sewing Bee, I went specifically looking for something with a bit of sheering, I just knew the fabric would take it so well being so lovely and light. Ariana is sheered at the back of the bodice; this really helps to ensure a great fit. The panel to be sheered isn’t too wide, but because it’s folded in half (half for the outer, and half for the lining) it contains 29 rows of sheering! And I ended up doing it twice… note to self, don’t try and skimp on the markings it really isn’t worth it. After properly marking the lines the second attempt at sheering this panel was a dream. I sheered to about 50%, with my stitch length on 5 having hand wound the bobbin. The pattern sadly doesn’t give any indication as to what % they suggest sheering to so it’s hard to know if this was correct, but it’s super stretchy and hugs my back like a glove.

The fabric suggestions for this pattern are cotton/linen/crepe so I knew I was going to be challenging this dress design by making it in viscose. The approach I took to combat this was to not just interface the bodice part of the button stand but all the way down the front button stand to add some stability. I then found that the bodice unfortunately did still gape across the bust by the buttons… a very common large busted problem I’m very used to encountering. It is hard to know (having never made this before) whether it was due to the types of buttons I’d used (shanked rather than flat and slightly larger than recommended), because the fabric was lighter than recommended, or because I’m busty… a lot of variables at play.

Not a disaster though because I was able to sew up the button opening (just over the bodice) and still get it on and off easily because of the stretchy sheering at the back. If you didn’t want to do this, you could always add some poppers/Velcro between the buttons to hold it shut (a hack for any button up garment that is gaping)

I debated the buttons on this for a while. Taking some time to pin each option onto the dress on the mannequin to see what looked best. I tried all the colours, debating between using all the different colours in the fabric with odd buttons but was struggling to find them all in the same size in my stash so decided to try making some covered buttons to match… now let me tell you if you’re a bit more conservative than me but still love this fabric you at the very least need to buy some to make buttons with, it makes the most incredible buttons! Because of all the colours in it each button is different and yet they all go together because of the leopard print across them all. As the fabric is light, I interfaced it before making the buttons and then fell in love. I’m so pleased with this choice!

This pattern has patch pockets on the dress (they’re a good size too) but you could definitely put inseam ones in instead if you preferred, it would absolutely be able to take it and be an easy adaptation.

I’m in love with this dress, I love this style because in the colder months I put a top on under them (very 90s vibe) … but more than anything I love this fabric. I’m pretty sure if anyone tried to sum me up in a print this would be it. And as for the drape/feel of this, we’ll I’ve already ordered more in another print so that probably says everything.

*A final note to say, Minerva has a recommendation on this fabric to use a fresh sharps needle. Don’t ignore this, I found after all that sheering by the time, I got to the button holes I had a couple of small runs happen (the needle was blunting). This is not unique to these viscoses, it’s a really common problem in these fabric types so do make sure to pop in a fresh needle.



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