Inserting the sleeve – focus on getting it pucker free on the outer but don’t spend the time doing the same on the lining as it’s not seen.

Sleeve seams – it states “stretch between dots” the success here depends on the fabric as to whether that’s possible, I would run ease stitches in the future as it will help if the fabric isn’t stretching (such as with the lining)

Cuffs – very common for men’s jackets to have faux buttonholes here, so don’t worry about actually opening them just sew the buttons over through all the layers to secure the cuff opening.

Collar – stopping sewing at the large circles is so important, they are sewn up to in so many directions that it won’t work if you go over or under the mark on any of them. Once you’ve then turned the collar out if it isn’t sitting flat don’t panic, take it to the ironing board as a gentle pull and a good press is likely all it needs.

Be careful with your basting, I found that this fabric left marks when the basting was removed. I’m sure that the fabric will recover over time but it’s worth testing this.

Don’t rush it, this is not a project to try and complete in a weekend… it needs time and care put into it to ensure a clean outcome.

I wouldn’t insert the tab or crotch guard into the shorts again, I find them both to be quite unnecessary.

I dread to think how many hours I spent making this suit, it is most definitely a labour of love… and yet do you know, regardless of that I am so absolutely thrilled with it. It’s actually hard to describe the pride I feel when I look at all its complexities and consider all the time I spent making sure each part was executed correctly. I know this suit is not for the faint-hearted, but I love a garment that makes a bold statement and who really wants to spend all this time constructing something you could buy anywhere. So with pride I will watch my partner wearing this suit (more than likely as separates most of the time) and genuinely I can see myself making another jacket using this pattern – and I implore you to give it a try.

See the finished pics on my next post...

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