Sequin fabrics have this way of reminding me of the 80’s, something that I by no means think is a bad thing… I actually think the world is a better place with a bit of sparkle in it.

This fabric is most definitely not missing a sparkle or too, it is everything that defines glitz and glamour in one piece of fabric.

Now the trick with sequin fabrics is to place the fear of it in the corner and following a little bit of advice trust that it’s not as tricky to work with as you may think. The way sequin fabrics are constructed can vary significantly, on this one specifically the sequins are sewn on in an ad hock pattern (whereas with others the sequins can be simply glued on or sewn on in rows).

Now there are 2 conflicting pieces of advice out in the world of sewing when it comes to sewing with these types of fabric, one that says to remove all the sequins from seam allowances before beginning and those that say not to. The reason for this is because for one removing the sequins is hugely time consuming and if not sewn accurately you can be left with bald sections at the seams. The advantage of doing it is to remove bulk so that a garment sits flatter, but in my opinion this is only necessary in certain circumstances (such as turning narrow hems on necklines for example). The really key piece of information you must know before you take on removing any sequins though is that you must cut the sequins off rather than unpicking the stitching holding them down, as otherwise you can end up with an unravelling situation that could mean you end up with a large amount of sequins to try and sew back on to your garment.

I toyed with a few ideas when it came to deciding on a garment to make from this fabric, as a skirt or dress would look absolutely stunning in it… but I decided that a jacket would be an incredibly versatile wardrobe piece for jazzing up an outfit for a special occasion, or even worn paired down for an extravagant daywear look. Now of course there are a huge number of jacket patterns available, and a lot would work in a sequin fabric but for me the simple lines of the Style Arc Loren Jacket was not just going to look really effortless but also give me that 80s vibe that I was looking for.

When choosing patterns for sequin fabrics the best advice I can give is to go simple. Nothing with too many fusses or frills that are going to detract from the fabric or be a fiddle to make work… just keep it simple and let the fabric do the talking.

So you’ve chosen your pattern and are ready to cut out… so now is the time to embrace mess… because trust me there is going to be a lot of it. There is no subtle way to cut a sequin fabric without shooting sequins all over the place… just plan to tidy up at the end and in the words of Disney let it go. Cutting through so many sequins is going to take its toll on your scissors so I don’t use my best scissors for this job, I pick an old pair that have seen better days (it keeps my dressmaking scissors sharper for longer by making these sorts of choices).

This jacket pattern does not include the pieces for lining it. I made this addition (something the instructions do briefly suggest as an option) because I felt it would improve the overall finish and it’s simple to do once you’ve got your head around it. When cutting out the lining pieces use the outer jacket pattern pieces as follows; cut the sleeves as per the outer fabric, the back with an extra ½ inch at the fold edge to create a pleat there, the front minus the facing piece (accounting for the extra seam allowances to attach them together). Once cut out you then piece the facing to the front to make 1 whole front and then essentially make 2 jackets (an outer and a lining) that are then seamed together along the front edge.

When you start seaming your pieces together just take your time. I changed the needle in my machine to one for sewing denim fabrics and then sewed as normal. The reason for the needle change was so that it would be more robust and hold up to the extra pressure it would need to punch through the sequins. I opened each seam when I was sewing across them to reduce bulk and didn’t use any finishing techniques as this fabric doesn’t fray so doesn’t need it. If you did find you didn’t like how bulky the seams were after sewing you could now remove some sequins if you wanted to, it’s always a choice (just one I can rarely find the willpower to do due to how time consuming it is)

This pattern has 2 options for pockets, in seam ones and patch pockets. Because of the fabric the patch pockets were going to be a complete mess so I disregarded those but I love a pocket so the inseam ones felt like a must. I cut the pocket bags out of the lining fabric (nobody wants to scratch their hands on sequin lined pockets), and then to stitch them on you attach them between the notches to the front and back pieces and then when stitching up the side seams upon reaching the pocket bags you simply sew around them before continuing with the side seam. They are some of the easiest pockets to add to a garment but create the most joy when wearing it.

I used no interfacing for this jacket and removed none of the sequins from the seam allowances. I felt like the style of the jacket meant neither were necessary. I didn’t even attempt to press any of the seam allowances (no one needs melted sequins) and it really doesn’t disadvantage from it. The way the jacket drapes is lovely and soft/slouchy which I think is a great contrast from the very extravagantly sequinned fabric. I am so excited to rock this during the festive season, it’s going to really jazz up my standard little black dress.

Thanks for reading,

Clare

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