Pyjama Trousers:

Now the key to this is understanding that the back leg will be larger than the front, otherwise there isn’t room for your bottom!

For the front lay the trousers out so the front is on top. I use a tracing wheel to get the line of the crotch easily but if you don’t you can fold the trousers in half so you can draw around all the edges straight onto the paper. I use pattern weights to hold the garment down whilst I’m tracing, anything with a bit of weight to it will work you’re just trying to stop it moving around. Turn the trousers over to repeat for the back leg.

There is only really one thing I check with a self-drafted trouser pattern to make sure it’s going to work and that’s the crotch line. Measure the crotch line you’ve drawn and compare it to the actual trousers and tweak as needed. Now you just need to add the seam allowance and create the cuff patterns as on the onesie pattern.

To make up the trousers you create 2 legs by sewing 1 front leg to 1 back leg at the side and inner leg seams. Then place one leg inside the other (right sides together) so you can sew the crotch seam. Add the cuffs to the bottom leg as described above.

To measure the elastic for any trouser I hold the elastic around my waist and stretch is slightly until it feels comfortable and then cut to this size. The waistband is a strip of fabric that’s twice the width of the elastic and the same length. Sew both into a circle and place the elastic inside the waistband and pin together. (You may find it easier to tack this together before moving on to the next stage).

This is going to be sewn to the top edge of the trousers in the same way the cuffs were before, making sure to stretch it to fit. This can be tricky, make sure to hold the fabric both sides of the needle so you’re not pulling against the machine or it won’t be able to feed.

As you can see from the pictures I sew most of my jersey seams directly on an overlocker. It’s a stretch stitch that creates a really neat finish so I find it easier but If you don’t have one (or aren’t very confident with it yet) don’t panic, just use a zig zag stitch on your normal machine. Please don’t be afraid to sew with stretch (I hear that people are all the time), it creates some wonderful garments and doesn’t require any changes in tension on your machine, you just have to be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew (apart from instructions where it says too).

See next post for finished pics!

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