Fabric - Minerva exclusive Monstera Evenings 100% cotton jersey stretch knit
Pattern - New Look 6751
I have just finished sewing a lovely maxi dress in the Monstera Evenings design and I have worn it out out twice already.
The photos here were taken at a beautiful swimming lake which we went to for a solstice swim, it was such a wonderful experience which I can recommend if you love being in nature and enjoy peace and tranquillity.
Back to the sewing details. So New Look 6751 was another pattern purchase I made last year and I have been on the lookout for a swishy fabric that would look fabulous for evenings out in the summer time. Heatwaves are unpredictable and I wanted something that has a bit of coverage but would be versatile enough for day or evening wear. When I was offered this 100% cotton jersey I was very keen to get going. The Monstera design has it all, the colours are rich and intense, with the blues highlighted by the gold and browns. It’s a very beautiful design and I thought the scale of the design would be perfect for a maxi dress.
New Look 6751 is designed for moderate stretch knits and there’s a stretch guide on the pattern indicating that 35% stretch is needed. This cotton jersey is pretty much an exact fit, it has 40% stretch on the width and 20% on the length. I really like the weight of this fabric too, it’s classed as 200gsm and is classed as medium. It’s nice and stable and can cope with the extra weight and drag of a long skirt.
After lots of deliberation and test stretching of the fabric I decided to sew a size 14, I will often size down when sewing with stretch but not this time and I’m glad I settled on this size.
I got my fabric washed and pressed, and then encountered the dreaded edge curl. This has to be the most challenging part of sewing with stretch fabrics. I tried spray starch but it doesn’t seem to work for me so it’s down to unravelling and hoping for the best.
When cutting out you really need a good light because you need to identify the rib ridges which give you the grainline. I also cut this flat, there was no way I could accurately fold a big piece of jersey on the grain successfully! So back to cutting by turning the pattern over on the fold. Im always a bit scared I might get carried away and cut down the fold, ending up with two pieces instead of one!
I used a ballpoint needle and my trusty stretch stitch.
There are some fiddly bits like hemming the bodice edges and the sleeves, this is where the fabric wants to just roll up and misbehave. I persevered with the iron and pins at the ready.
Now for my deviation from the pattern instructions. When I read about adding two elastics to casings made from the seam allowances of the bodice and skirt at the back I just couldn’t see how it could work. I felt it would look very untidy and pull in an uncohesive manner, so I cut two back waistband pieces, attached the second one and attached elastic in the casing this made. Having just made the lined New Look 6491 I was inspired to do it this way. I have to say I have no idea if the original instructions would work but it just felt wrong especially for this weight of fabric.
Im happy with the result, it gives a good elasticated waistband at the back, it’s just a bit restrictive on arm movements but I won’t be hanging washing out while wearing this dress so that’s fine by me!
Everything else was a doddle after my journey into the unknown and I can say this dress is lovely to wear. I had a compliment on its second outing, when it was described as “very white lotus” so I have looked this up and feel that I can wear this anywhere!!
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