Pattern - The Melody Dress Collection by Now & Then

The Melody Dress is a design classic which has a wonderful vintage 1930’s inspired look. I could definitely wear this dress to one of the popular vintage days and accessorise it with the right hat, gloves and shoes but it’s first day out will be a very modern wedding.

I was offered the chance to sew this pattern by Minerva, they are now the sole stockists of the Now & Then collection and I absolutely loved sewing this design.

The pattern instructions are concise and well thought out, with helpful diagrams, it probably helps a bit if you have some sewing experience but not absolutely necessary. Most of the dress is cut on the bias so that alone means that care must be taken at all times.

I chose to use a very light and airy cotton sateen, it has such a vintage look and feel to the fabric, I remember seeing vintage pieces sewn in this type of fabric in the past. I had some lining in my stash that was light enough not to alter the drape which was lucky. The ultimate choice for this dress would be a beautiful silk with a silk lining, that would be an absolutely heavenly combination. Maybe one day!!

If you have ever sewn with vintage patterns you will know that they are super basic in the measurements information. Now & Then patterns give you everything you need to know including the finished garment sizing, which makes life so much easier. I chose to sew a size 12 because it was pretty much spot on for me, this didn’t stop me from panicking at times that the bodice would be too tight. Mid way through I was convinced that I had made a mistake and much measuring took place with a back up plan in mind. However when I compared it to a recent make where I redesigned the bodice to my exact measurements it convinced me that it would work, and it does! Phew!!

The dress is pretty much all cut on the bias, and I cut my dress on the flat. A word of warning, the pattern diagrams show the layout on fabric without nap, which isn’t stated. If you were to follow this layout with a fabric which has a clear top and bottom to the design your skirt front and back will have a chevron effect with one side of the fabric pattern upside down. Great if using stripes or geometric designs. This also meant that I could get the dress out of 3 metres, bearing in mind that I recut the front bodice because I cut the first one wrongly and I didn’t like the pattern placement! Cutting out took me a full day of wrangling the fabric to the best pattern placement made even more difficult because it’s on the cross! But I’m happy with the result.

It’s quite a straightforward sew, but accuracy especially on the neckline is of paramount importance, I know because I sewed it twice! The bodice lining calls for a finish to the neckline and I simply cut a bias strip, I made it very small so it wouldn’t bulge so it was tricky but doable. I finished my seams by hemming them, my machine struggled a bit with finishing such delicate fabric on the bias.

Sewing this dress was such a journey, I love the pattern, fell instantly in love with my fabric and then as the project progressed doubts set in, you know how it happens, but when I tried it on - bam - I absolutely love it!! So I think this is my wedding guest outfit for a June wedding!

Thank you Minerva for giving me the chance to sew this amazing dress.👗

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