Fabric - Minerva Core Range Boucle Textured Coating Fabric - Marl Black

Pattern - Twig & Tail Pixie Coat

I love my new coat! This gifted Minerva Core Boucle Coating fabric has sewn up perfectly for the Pixie Coat by Twig & Tail.

FABRIC

Minerva gifted 2.4m of their Core Range Boucle Textured Coating Fabric in Marl Black.

The fabric is 150cm wide & is a 100% Polyester Knit. It doesn’t contain elastane but has some mechanical stretch & is classed as medium/heavy weight and 300 GSM. It is a beautiful fabric, soft to touch and no fraying. It washed and dried well and seams pressed easily during construction.

PATTERN

This New Zealand pattern company is new to me and I found it by Googling images of coat sewing patterns. I knew what I was looking for but couldn’t recall a pattern that I fancied making with this fabric. There were two styles I was looking at – The Grove Coat & The Pixie coat. I liked the Grove as it has a darted bust. It also has darted saddle sleeves, appearing more raglan to me on the website, & side seam pockets. I preferred the design of the front placket, set in sleeves & patch pockets on the Pixie Coat, finding side pockets to be too far back for my comfort but I could have adapted the pattern to make patch pockets.

The pattern is designed for medium to heavy weight non stretch fabrics such as wool coating, denim, twill, velvet, canvas or soft shell. It also recommends using lightweight non stretch lining fabric.

The coat has a relaxed, boxy fit having a faced lining, is a relatively simple sew. It has a choice of 2 hood shapes – classic round or pixie hood and classic button holes or loops.

There are many sewing and fit resources on the website and a video sew-along for visual instructions. The written instructions are comprehensive and easy to follow.

The pattern is in PDF format and I use a copyshop to print the pattern A0.

https://www.twigandtale.com/products/pixie-coat-women-curved-fit-digital-pattern-video-class

SIZING

Pattern size ranges from hip 33” – 72” in two sizing options 0 - 22 & 14 - 38.

CHOSEN VIEW

I chose to make the classic hood with button loops and toggles giving it a Duffel coat vibe.

SIZE & ALTERATIONS

The sizing is based on the upper bust and finished garment measurements and I made a straight size I (i). I usually have to grade out from the waist to the hips but there is enough ease on the finished measurements that this wasn’t required. With a less heavy fabric I would also use size H for the chest and shoulders grading out at the waist. For this make having a 1cm seam allowance, I increased the seam allowance at the sleeve head as the shoulders were slightly too wide, even having made a toile.

The upper arms also didn’t need any adjustments, an area where I usually have to increase the sizing.

My measurements are 38” upper bust, 42” fill bust, 36” waist & 46” full hips.

NOTIONS

Lining – Dark charcoal liquid sateen 100% polyester fabric x 2 metres.

Iron on interfacing.

1.5”/4cm toggles.

Moon black thread.

CONSTRUCTION

The instructions were easy to follow and construction is straightforward, suitable for beginners. The fabric sewed beautifully and pressed open easily to reduce bulk. I didn’t use the overlocker as the coat is lined nor did the fabric fray.

REVIEW

This boucle coating fabric is ideal for The Pixie Coat and it feels nice and warm to wear. The satin lining makes it easy to slip on and off.

The pattern has comprehensive fitting instructions, & optional add-ons to purchase giving numerous animal themed patterns.

There aren’t many patterns that I don’t have to adjust so it was a pleasant surprise to not have to lower the bust point or do full bust and full biceps adjustments.

I like the ease of sewing with boucle fabric versus wool coating fabric and the current price of £12.99 per metre makes it a very attractive alternative to wool.

Thank you to Minerva for the beautiful fabric.

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