FABRIC - Minerva Exclusive Glorious Garnish Sweater Knit Stretch Fabric

PATTERN - ITS Busan Top

FABRIC

I have previously sewn with a Minerva exclusive sweater knit and know that the fabric has a good amount of stretch, which is recommended for this pattern, & although it’s a knit it feels quite lightweight to wear. It washes well and dries really quickly & gets bonus points as no ironing is required at all.

This is one of Minerva’s POD (printed on demand) fabrics and although it obviously takes a bit longer to be despatched, it is worth the wait and has the same excellent quality as other polyester knit fabrics.

It is stretchy, soft and has a good amount of drape. It comprises 96% polyester and 4% elastane which gives it a 70% stretch across the width (from selvedge to selvedge) and a 20% stretch down the length of the fabric.

I love the abstract design and subtle colours with the dark charcoal/black background and spots in shades of pink, peach, lime and aqua.

It cuts out well and sews easily with the overlocker and sewing machine. There is minimal fraying whilst making the garment.

PATTERN

The pattern I chose is the Busan Top by Itch to Stitch

(https://itch-to-stitch.com/product/busan-top-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/).

This is the third ITS pattern I have used and have found them all to be well designed, true to size and with clear instructions.

The pattern pieces all have the direction of stretch, as well as the grainline, printed on them which is helpful.

SIZING

The pattern sizes range from 00 – 20 US (Bust - 31 – 46” & hips - 33.25 – 48”)

SIZE & ALTERATIONS

I used size 14 upper bust grading out to 16 for waist and 18 hips although I actually graded back down to 16 hips when I sewed the side seams.

NOTIONS

Stay tape or fusible interfacing for the shoulder seams

Matching thread

CONSTRUCTION

Overall, the garment sewed together quickly and even with the feature on the sleeves, which are inserted on the flat, it is a speedy make. I sewed all of the seams using the overlocker and just used the sewing machine at the end to top stitch the neckline and the bottom hem.

REVIEW

I took a gamble with this pattern style as I’m usually conscious of adding extra ‘weight’ to my upper arms and shoulders. I was pleasantly surprised that, although there is extra volume in the shoulders, the neat pleats set into the narrow vest shaped bodice adds a nice structured feature. In addition, the tight wrist cuffs thin the lower portion of the arm again.

I have made two Busan Tops and just need to tweak the fit slightly and may go down one size overall and add a small full bust adjustment as I found the front rides up slightly when I wear it, plus the neck felt a little loose. I shortened the neckband for my second Busan but wish to make the neck opening a bit narrower. I will add a small amount of length to both the body and the sleeves, approximately 2cm.

I love this jumper so much and will make my next one in jersey for a different t-shirt silhouette and I may change it up with curved hems front and back using The Breckenridge Henley pattern by Love Notions Sewing Patterns, a pattern that I go back to regularly.

Thank you to Minerva for the beautiful, soft fabric.

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