Do you like skirts or trousers in the colder temperatures? I’m forever cold and don’t get along wonderfully well with tights, so it will always be trousers all the way for me … read: jeans 90% of the time. Also because I live in the Netherlands and it feels pretty cultural. So it’s nice to add some non jeans trousers to my wardrobe and these ones made from the Minerva Core Range cotton canvas are pretty good to have! Even if they are in the Dutch national orange colour, let’s just say I’m ready for King’s Day come next April.

Fabric:

100% cotton canvas, I’d say it’s medium weight. Not heavy as a pair of eg jeans that you’d buy ready to wear, but enough for bottom weight. I think it’s ideal for e.g. a jumpsuit (though I didn’t do that with this given the potential for prison vibes with this orange) or maybe a structured shirt dress. It’s probably more spring / summer trouser material for me, but I’m going to wear these in winter anyway! I washed it at 30 degrees and put it in the dryer as well before I started sewing and it came out fine.

For the trims, my bias binding on the waistband is leftover lining from a coat. Actually, that was another Minerva make, you can see it here! https://www.minerva.com/posts/1177630 And a random scrap bit of cotton for the pockets. Always fun to choose notions that are contrasting yet complementary in colour, and also a great way to use up some random bits and bobs that are in my stash.

Pattern and styling

Modern Sewing Co Worker Trouser (PDF only). This has been a really popular pattern on Instagram in the last year or so and I was keen to try out the leg shape. There are other patterns a bit like this with a roomy thigh and tapered leg; Adams Pants by Daughter Judy (my favourite, see it here https://www.instagram.com/p/CuyaJgTqVME/ ), Terra Pants by Pattern Fantastique (also super comfy, has one front pleat - link here to my blog https://timetosew.uk/pattern-fantastique-terra-pant/ ) and also the Eve Trousers by Merchant and Mills (side zip and flat front).

The challenge is more on winter styling. I added a few cm to the length as cropped doesn’t really work for the current temps. Added high top converses underneath, but I think a slim sock boot would work just as well. I’m wearing a sweater I knitted a couple of years ago - the Festival Sweater by Petite Knit.

Fitting

I used the Top Down Centre Out method to fit, which basically involves a toile with a fully interfaced waistband and one leg, and adjust from there. It gives me the same result as with a regular full toile in terms of adjustments that I make with all trousers (take in the hips, grade out at the waist, shorten back crotch) but I must say, this is much more efficient since there’s only one leg involved. For extra efficiency I also left the front pocket out of the toile and pinned on the back pocket pattern piece for positioning. Happy days! You can watch all about the TDCO method in the series of videos made by The Crooked Hem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Cgo5s8yC1I

Modifications: not much!

Take in the hip curve on the back and front
Approx. 1cm off the back inseam
Make the patch pocket smaller by 1cm all round, and put it 1.5cm higher.
For next time: the front pocket is overall a little small and just doesn’t feel wide enough, so I’ll either borrow from another pattern or just make them 2cm wider next time.

Conclusion

I’ve worn these quite a few times by now and I’m really happy with them. Fit-wise I would not make any changes next time - they feel like they hug me in all the right places, also hold me in around the middle without feeling constricted but still fine to sit down and eat. Almost the unicorn trouser! Canvas for me is not a fabric with a lot of give although it does loosen up a bit during the day. I am about to make a repeat of this in a stretch denim since it's winter, and look forward to adding another pair to my collection!

Till next time,
Kate

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