Every winter I get the hankering to make a sweater dress, and the Sew Over It Heather dress is one of my favorite cool-weather staples. I live in sweater dresses during the cold-weather seasons because I love how they keep me snug and warm, but also provide lots of stretch and don’t hinder walking quickly to get out of the rain or wind, for example.

This time I made this pattern in a polyester ponte knit fabric from Minerva’s core range. Ponte fabrics are perfect for the beginner sewist who wants to try sewing with a stretchy fabric for the first time as it’s easy to work with and firmer than a slinky viscose jersey, for example. I love the dark plum color of this fabric, it’s one of my favorite colors to wear in the fall. It also has a special meaning this season because my fiancé and I chose it as one of our wedding colors as it suits us both and I had that in mind as I was sewing up this dress.

This fabric was lovely to work with. It has a smooth, buttery texture and with my machine’s lightning stitch (a long and narrow zig-zag stitch) it sewed up very easily. The only downside is that since it is a rare viscose blend, it wrinkles a bit, so I end up having to press it, especially at the skirt half were it’s a bit looser, after washing it. However, this fabric can handle moderate heat and even a little steam well with no need for a pressing cloth and doesn’t melt or turn shiny under the iron.

This is one of many Sew Over It Heather dresses that I’ve made, and I kept the modifications that I’d applied to earlier versions. The main modification I apply when I make this dress is to add a center back seam to scoop out some of the excess fabric that pools vertically at my lower back, as well as some shaping at the waist to take it in a little. These modifications are mainly because the smallest size available for this pattern is a size 8 and I’m a bit smaller than that, so these modifications help this pattern work for my body.

Unlike previous versions, I did not shorten the hem, and I like the longer length. However, this fabric has more drape and clings a bit more than I anticipated, so the skirt seems a little bit slinkier around my hips and the dress hangs awkwardly at the back. Therefore, I would highly recommend this fabric for a less-structured pattern, something that would take advantage of its lovely drape, and not a dress like this one.

This fabric is also very wide, so I was able to cut a Seamwork Astoria sweater out of the remaining scraps! I did end up having to unpick and shorten the neckband because this fabric has a higher amount of stretch than I anticipated, but now that I’ve fixed it, this sweater serves me very well. I made a size 0 and lengthened the sleeves about three inches so that they came to just past my elbows rather than above my elbows as the pattern was originally designed. I find that length much more flattering on me and I’m pleased that it turned out well.

I highly recommend the Seamwork Astoria sweater, it is a very easy project that can be sewn up in an afternoon and is perfect if you like wearing high-waisted pants and skirts, or marking your waist when wearing a dress, for example.

All in all, I highly recommend this fabric for beginner sewists, and in either a close-fitting, or relaxed pattern, but not in between.

Thanks for reading,
Sarah
Instagram: sarah__naomi_
YouTube: Sarah Naomi

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