About a year ago I had my colors assessed and learned that cool, light, and muted colors really highlighted my best features. Sewing exclusively in my “calm summer” color palette has helped ensure I love and wear all of my makes. And I recently started purchasing seasonal capsule wardrobe plans to help keep the pieces I make current and cohesive. Looking through the winter capsule plans I decided to make a bias skirt to round out the pieces I already had and I knew the beautiful teal color of this Prada Crepe Satin would coordinate well.
This year I’m focusing on using patterns and/or fabrics from my stash so, since I was using a new fabric, I reviewed my existing skirt patterns looking for a bias option. I have made the Butterick 5710 Pippa dress in the past but didn’t have a skirt pattern. Next I turned to a few free online options and landed on the Mood Sewciety Indigo skirt pattern. I loved the line drawings and the blog post seemed simple enough. However, this pattern calls for an elastic waistband and my hip-to-waist ratio is large enough the skirt was very gathered and not as sleek as I’d hoped for. Even though I made the skirt using French seams I carefully deconstructed portions of the skirt to size down and remove some of the excess fabric. The second version of this skirt fit my hips well but was still too big at the waist.
At that point I dug out my Butterick 5710 bias pattern and layered it over the Indigo pattern. The hip width of these two patterns matched, but the Butterick pattern was much narrower at the waist. So, I decided to rework the skirt again in hopes of achieving my dream vision. Again, this was a challenge with French seams. I started by cutting off the elastic waistband, seam ripping the top portion of the side seams, and narrowing the skirt between the hips and waist. I sewed one side seam to assess the fit and was much happier with this version of the skirt. After examining a number of my ready-to-wear skirts I decided to add darts and an invisible zipper that zipped up through the waistband. This was more an art than a science as I took the darts lower and lower until I finally achieved my desired look.
While I couldn’t, and probably wouldn’t, ever remake this exact skirt I do like the final garment and think it will work well in my wardrobe. I am really amazed at how well this fabric held up through all versions of this skirt. It is one I would ABSOLUTELY buy again. And this skirt is so versatile to style!
Pattern: Mood Sewciety Indigo, Butterick B5710, self drafting
Size: me (started with 12/14 and sized down to 8/10 in Indigo, used size 12 Butterick pattern for reference)
Fabric: 3 yards of Minerva Core Range Prada Satin Crepe Fabric, teal
Time: 8-9 hours, counting all versions of this skirt (or three nap times as I count in today’s terms)
Cost to Make:
patience - heaps of it
pattern - Mood Sewciety Indigo free (plus home printing costs), Butterick pattern previously owned
fabric - $72 value (including shipping)
*interfacing, thread, and zipper from my stash
TOTAL VALUE: $72
As a member of the Minerva Maker Team this fabric was gifted to me. All opinions are my own!
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