I bought Gertie’s Jiffy Dress book back at the outset of the lockdown in March when I started dressmaking. For years, I wore ready to wear vintage reproduction fashion; after nine months of sewing I feel confident enough with basic fitting to return to this aesthetic. Saying that, I’m also so happy that sewing has made me comfortable in other styles as well.

I’ve been working with a lot of stretch fabrics recently, so it was lovely to return to woven fabrics. This is a lovely 100% cotton; it’s a light/medium weight but could benefit from being lined as it is a little transparent when in direct sunlight – I didn’t bother lining it as it’s much easier to just wear a slip underneath a full gathered skirt. Who needs the extra work? I love the print of the fabric – it’s not what I would call subtle with its floral and butterfly motifs, but the colours are all so pretty that I wouldn’t go as far to call it loud. It just has such a feminine charm that I couldn’t resist trying one of Gertie’s patterns with it. It’s definitely very wearable and can be layered with so many cardigans and jackets in the colder months and worn alone when spring returns. It will definitely get a lot of wear. I actually think the fabric is as suitable for home projects as it is dressmaking – isn’t that one of the charms of cotton? – and I have a little left over that I think I’ll try to squeeze a little half apron out of!

The project was such a pleasure – I sewed it up in a couple of hours. I did toile the bodice and realised that there was a little room around the bust and shoulders but I decided not to make adjustments because it was comfortable and does not look obviously big so it wasn’t worth the extra effort. However, I think next time I might try a size smaller with a full bust adjustment but, after all the festive eating, I might wait a few weeks before I do that!

The pattern I chose from the book is the boatneck dress; every project in the book appeals to me but I had to start somewhere, and the neckline was what won out. I’ve been trying to make pieces which are as suitable for work as they are play. This is such a classy style that it can be dressed up and down and worn to pretty much any place. The best part is that Gertie has put together a range of dresses that are made with minimal pieces so the book is perfect for beginners (the book teaches you so many techniques) as well as suitable for more experienced dressmakers who are looking for a quick project or just want a few pieces in the wardrobe that have a little retro charm.

The dress skirt can be made a full as you like – there is no pattern piece but, rather, you cut rectangles to your preferred length and fullness. I made use of the width of this fabric (it’s over 60” wide so perfect for making swing circle and gathered skirts). I wish all cotton came in 60” widths because it’s one of my favourite fabrics to sew with and I prefer full skirt patterns. One of the techniques I skipped in this pattern, which you’ll spot in the image taken of the back of the dress, is the lapped zipper. I love lapped zippers and it’s definitely a technique worth learning and it would have given the dress a more ‘authentically vintage’ finish but I didn’t have any regular zippers so I figured I might as well just make use of the concealed zip. Lapped zippers are best for fitted garments, though, as it offers a little more strength to your zip which will help the garment last longer so it’s worth doing. Next time, I’ll just get a regular zip but Northern Ireland is back in lockdown and the haberdashery has to remain closed; I’m not patient enough to wait on the post.

I love this dress and it’s a pattern I’ll revisit in the future. For now, I look forward to teaming this fabric with my knitwear collection over the winter months but I know this dress will look just as cute in spring and summer with a hat and pair of sandals!

Mary-Ellen x