Hello there! I’m on a roll with cotton lawn projects. Let me introduce you to my version of the Seamwork Willis button up. This pattern is a sleeveless button up with a collar, bust dart, and bias faced armholes. It is available in size 0 through 26. That corresponds to 33 inch bust, 25 inch waist, and 35 inch hips at the smallest size and 54 inch bust, 47 inch waist, and 58 inch hips at the largest size. There are misses and curvy fits for this pattern and reflect two different blocks. For this pattern the curvy fit includes sizes 18 through 26.

The Willis is relaxed fit button up with two hemline options. Version one features a curved hem while version two has a straight hemline. There is a full button placket as well as a single patch pocket. Suggested fabrics include light to mid weight woven fabrics. Some of the options mentioned are shirting, lawn, poplin, voile, batiste, linen, swiss dot, seersucker, silk crepe, and rayon challis. I wanted to use a fabric that had a bit of structure but also some movement. I didn’t want a very shifty fabric since I needed accurate cutting for the button placket and collar pieces.

I did not account for the directionality of the fabric, so I accidentally cut the back pattern piece in the opposite direction. I honestly did not realize this until I was fully finished with the shirt. It doesn’t bother me at all, so I’ll call it a design feature. I didn’t attempt any pattern matching because I wasn’t exactly sure how the shirt would come together. It was my first time making the pattern, so I didn’t want to complicate the process.

I used size 26 for the shoulder, collar, and bust blending to a size 24 in the hip and waist. I did this because my 54 inch bust corresponds to the size 26. I could have used a size 24 and done a full bust adjustment, but I wanted to try it this way. I am pretty pleased with how everything turned out. This fabric was a bit lighterweight than I anticipated, but it didn’t have a negative impact on the garment. I was able to interface and press this fabric relatively easily. I used a lot of steam and the cotton setting on my iron. I staystitched the neckline as instructed but not the armholes. I wish I would’ve staystitched the armholes because I had to use my seam ripper and it stretched the fabric a bit. That’s on me because I tried to use the notions I had on hand.

This fabric did fray a bit more than I anticipated, but it wasn’t anything extraordinary. I made sure I was careful when I finished my seams, and I was able to use my serger without any issues. I initially thought the fabric might be too sheer to wear by itself, but I am very comfortable with the opacity. Overall, I enjoyed using this fabric and making this top. I think this is a funky print that could be worn with a variety of colors. I like that the fabric is lightweight, and I will absolutely layer it with me made garments in my closet. I love how it looks with my Cashmerette Ames jeans.

#MinervaMakes #MinervaMakers #LadyMcElroyFabric #SeamworkPatterns #SeamworkWillis #ButtonUp #PrintedFabric #BlackMaker #BlackSewist #FatSewing #CurvySewing #CurvySewist #PlusSizeSewing #MeMadeEveryday #MeMadeWardrobe #HandmadeWardrobe #MillennialSewing


Please sign in to leave a comment.


00