I used an invisible zipper for my final. I mentioned recently in this post how I am new to invisible zippers and I am looking forward to using them more often, to gain more practice.

I found with this project that I, again, didn’t have the zipper up quite high enough to the edge of the skirt. I worked around this area by angling the waist facing down and then up along the top edge. You don’t have a uniform look when you do this but you can get around the zipper height if you make this mistake as well.

For the final I thought it would be fun to change the angle of the top pocket to match the pocket profile on another Sew House 7 pattern that I have sewn (the Free Range Slacks, and also similar to the Tea House Dress pockets). I find I do this frequently when I make a muslin, I enjoy changing up the design a bit for the final, just for fun. I inverted the pockets so that the angle of the pockets starts higher in the center and angles down. I do love the look of the original pocket as it follows your stomach curve well, in a flattering way.

This pattern is so complementary to someone with curves, like myself. I love that! It’s something that I find so encouraging with hand sewing garments, celebrating each person's body type being different and beautiful in their own way.

To do this pocket modification, I first copied the original pocket pattern. Then I drew a curved line along the new hip edge (the opposite edge). I then matched the straight line along the other side. I graded within the new pocket from an 8 to a 10 (as I did on the original pocket piece, along the hip curve). To draw the new hip curve line I just laid the new pocket pattern piece under the skirt front and traced the curve. When I flipped the top of the pocket down to sew the top edge, I had to remember to do this on the opposite side then noted in the pattern (since I switched the profile direction).

I found on the muslin that I would have liked the pocket edge stitch lines to be closer to the edge. I tried on the final using the left edge stitch sewing machine foot and the following setting on my sewing machine.

To be continued….

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